Thursday, 10 January 2013

2013 Collection:Couture Riding Jacket

So, officially back at work full tie now that Riley has gone back to nursery for a couple of days a week and I finally get to sink my teeth into this new Collection...about time too! This is also my first post since New Year, my resolutions so far are steadfast, hurrah!

Last night I started to pattern cut the first piece, which is the most complicated, and also why I am getting it over and done with first. This will be a riding jacket that pulls in influences of military,Steampunk and Edwardian frock coats.

I started by drawing up my Dress Block in a size 12 so I can test the pattern on my standard Morplan Size 12 Dress form. I am using a dress block because I want it to fit close to the body for a dramatic effect, rather than a normal coat or jacket block I would use if it were a genuine piece of outerwear.

From my flat dress block I drew on the main style lines, trace onto new paper, add my seam allowances, cut it out and pin it to the dress form for a first look at the pattern cutting. I am hoping it is perfect (of course) but this is the first place to start looking for potential errors or things to tweak:
And here it is. I am slightly concerned at this point about the tightness of the neckline around the shoulder seam (may need to add a little room here) but nothing else is glaring me in the face so I go ahead and test the pattern in calico as it stands and I will have a look at that neckline more thoroughly when I get a collar on it.
I have also decided to do the calico with the skirt, so off to some more pattern cutting and here she is so far:

I have marked on in pen some tweaks to my detailing, and I also would like more fullness in the swing of the skirt so I will add that into the pattern when I cut it out in fabric. Neckline is a little tight:some tweaking here and the back box pleat needs a reposition and could possibly be more generous. Apart from that I am loving the overall lines of the jacket and the general outline and sweep of the shapes which will drape much better in my suiting fabric.

Off now to play with my sleeve pattern....

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