Tuesday, 15 October 2013

Countryphile: The Make-up

Today's blog comes from the very talented Zoe Della Rocca, who designed the looks for the Countryphile photo shoot with Gareth Gregg and Brighton Fashion Week.

Zoe is a freelance make-up/hair artist and stylist, and can easily command the task of creative direction without hesitation. If you would like to hire Zoe for any of these jobs I would highly recommend her.

Here is the final look:

Copyright Gareth Gregg

And this is how Zoe achieved the look... now over to Zoe:

Website:  www.zoedellarocca.com

E-mail: info@zoedellarocca.com

I designed the hair and make up for Chrissie's Countryphile Collection at Brighton Fashion Week and subsequent fashion shoot, this involved making bespoke false nails, hair pieces and lashes. I then provided detailed instructions, face maps and photographic references for the hair and make up artist team working on the show.

After meeting Chrissie Nicholson Wild a year ago in a cafe for a casual chat over coffee, it soon became clear that I had found someone that shared my passion for experimental creativity.
Some one who is not scared to 'give things a go' and viewed anything possible until proven otherwise.
I liked this energy and we were soon lost deep in creative banter which blossomed into an ongoing productive working relationship.

During our initial meeting we talked of many ideas, one of which being Countryphile.
We discussed Chrissies design ideas, began a pinterest board and soon had ideas flourishing between us.
The Countryphile collection is, as the name suggests, a sexy play on tradtional english country trappings of the gentry. Tweeds, brass fittings and classic leather all feature heavily, there's even a flash of country fowl.

The Make Up and overall styling, strongly influenced by the obvious equine link was something we wanted to remain prominent throughout.

When considering the make up I instantly thought about the contours of a horses face.
Contrary to the common unflattering term 'she looks like a bit of a horse!', we discussed the elegant elongated nose, chiselled cheekbones, strong brows, dark sexy eyes and luscious lashes and felt a desire illustrate subtly.
Copyright Zoe Della Rocca

Highlighting and Contouring

For all the models I used MAC Vanilla pigment to highlight down the centre of the face from the forehead down the bridge of the nose.

I used a mixture of MAC 'Wood Winked' and MAC 'Tempting' eye shadows' to strongly contour under the cheekbones and down the inner sides of the nose....to elongate.

The eyes were given a 'longeye' style this was achieved by firstly applying MAC Bronze eye pencil to the top and bottom water lines and subtly smudging to the outer edges.

Next I gave the eyes a gold base this was followed by MAC 'Tempting' in the socket. Using the blending brush, I gently 'pulled' the shadow out towards the outer edge of the eye. Finally I applied MAC reflects 'Antique Gold' in the corner 'triangle' of the eye, continuing to pull the colour outwards whilst seamlessly blending.

This look was completed by applying mascara and the false lashes.

I had attached the very fine green quills from a peacock feather onto the end of the false lashes using lash adhesive. Although it was a very fiddly job the results were stunning and really enhanced by the lighting.


This is the lip effect we created for the photo shoot up close:

(cropped from original edit) by Gareth Gregg

The high impact catwalk lips were achieved in the following way:

Firstly I colour matched the lipstick to the jacket lining, blending several lipsticks which I applied to the lips with a brush. I dotted DUO adhesive on the centre of the lips working out towards the corners of the mouth. Then, using an orange stick, I applied tiny pieces of flaked gold leaf.


I made bespoke false nails for the shoot inspired by the fabric linings and trimmings as I felt this would compliment and complete the overall styling concept.

Feather Nails

I painted a bronze base coat and applied the very ends of the pheasant feathers whilst the varnish was still tacky. Once dry, I trimmed the feathers and sealed with a clear top coat.

Tweed Nails

I used the nail adhesive sparingly to glue the fabric onto the nail and trimmed the fabric once dry.

copyright Zoe Van Spyk

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