New corset designs for 2014

Every corset designer worth their salt never rests on their laurels.

Most corset makers, like myself, take every opportunity available to try out construction and pattern cutting exercises, from trying to make headway on an interesting patent found on Google or an interesting book that comes out or through personal study and research.

Today I am going to share my own self study process, just one of many ways in which your corset study can be informed and enriched. Even making mistakes is a form of study, and one which I relish as a knowledge increaser rather than a failure of task.

When I want to start I start with my regular Size 12 block with all the ease removed, which is where you would also start if you were to begin making lingerie, in which the fabric sits so close to the body as if to form a second skin. I also know I want to make a corset with more pattern pieces so I can increase the amount of boning I am using with the addition of seaming. So I'm going to go for a 16 panel corset, lets see where we end up.

Must apologise for the darkness of the photo's, I only had black coutil in the studio today.

So here is my size 12 black, I trace this onto a fresh piece of dot and cross paper.

 From there I use my knowledge of how a body is shaped and how I want to reduce the waist to draw up my pattern. At this point I have a pretty good idea of how this will shape on someone's body, and there is no better way of testing the pattern without putting it together.

And here is the first draft of the pattern. From here it's my job to question all aspects of the design and make decisions on how I want to alter it. I need to think about how I want the corset to modify the body and it's silhouette, about the design lines and where I will place the boning.

Here is my coutil mock up pinned where I intend to modify the pattern.

Changes:

• straighten up the seam lines into a more vertical position
• more waist modification for nipped in silhouette

 Things to consider

• neckline, love the height but not sure I want it to stand proud of the body (which it will)
• boning placement around the bust to stop creases around the bust where it is super tight for an enhancement effect.
• hemline shaping

That's it for now, off to redevelop the pattern ready for the next installment.

Steampunk jacket design

Yesterday was a bit of a write off, but I got the final shell of the jacket done. More swish has been added to the skirts and tidying up of the sleeve pattern. Now begins the push of working out the interlinings, facings and inner strength construction and the lining. There really is a lot going on behind the surface of the jacket to keep it's shape firm and sexy.

So, here is what we are aiming for:

 

More news on the final piece later:

2013 Collection:Couture Riding Jacket

So, officially back at work full tie now that Riley has gone back to nursery for a couple of days a week and I finally get to sink my teeth into this new Collection...about time too! This is also my first post since New Year, my resolutions so far are steadfast, hurrah!

Last night I started to pattern cut the first piece, which is the most complicated, and also why I am getting it over and done with first. This will be a riding jacket that pulls in influences of military,Steampunk and Edwardian frock coats.

I started by drawing up my Dress Block in a size 12 so I can test the pattern on my standard Morplan Size 12 Dress form. I am using a dress block because I want it to fit close to the body for a dramatic effect, rather than a normal coat or jacket block I would use if it were a genuine piece of outerwear.

From my flat dress block I drew on the main style lines, trace onto new paper, add my seam allowances, cut it out and pin it to the dress form for a first look at the pattern cutting. I am hoping it is perfect (of course) but this is the first place to start looking for potential errors or things to tweak:

And here it is. I am slightly concerned at this point about the tightness of the neckline around the shoulder seam (may need to add a little room here) but nothing else is glaring me in the face so I go ahead and test the pattern in calico as it stands and I will have a look at that neckline more thoroughly when I get a collar on it.
I have also decided to do the calico with the skirt, so off to some more pattern cutting and here she is so far:

I have marked on in pen some tweaks to my detailing, and I also would like more fullness in the swing of the skirt so I will add that into the pattern when I cut it out in fabric. Neckline is a little tight:some tweaking here and the back box pleat needs a reposition and could possibly be more generous. Apart from that I am loving the overall lines of the jacket and the general outline and sweep of the shapes which will drape much better in my suiting fabric.

Off now to play with my sleeve pattern....